cruising in the time of covid

Hello and welcome back for our 2nd edition of Pacific Dispatch. The world has certainly been upended during this pandemic, and we hope this finds you all well and doing your best to thrive during these challenging times. We have been on the move since the end of our lockdown experience in Tahiti. After 40 days stuck at anchor, we couldn’t wait to get back on the water to surf and sail around the Society Islands, despite the ushering in of the blustery ‘mara’amu’ season of reinforced trade winds. 

A lot has happened since our last issue. After cancelled flights due to border closures kept us in French Polynesia longer than anticipated, we decided to sail S/V Aldebaran to the beautiful island of Huahine and even welcomed our first guest aboard for the adventure. After an incredible experience of Polynesian culture and lifestyle, yet another unexpected turn took us on what would become a major Pacific crossing. We had the opportunity to sail thousands of miles on a Morelli & Melvin 65 Catamaran. We hope you enjoy this issue. 

  Freedom to Roam (and Surf)

Haut Commissariat Sorain announced a relaxation of quarantine measures starting on April 29th. We were free to move about Tahiti, and soon (with prior approval), Mo’orea. During confinement, we swam around our anchorage and practiced yoga with excited vigor in an effort to keep ourselves fit and ready to surf Tahiti’s challenging waves. We were quickly approaching the winter season in the southern hemisphere, when swells become more frequent and substantially bigger, and the trade winds howl out of the Southeast. 

Right on time, a swell hit the south coast of Tahiti a mere two days after restrictions were lifted. It was a medium sized swell for the famous mutant wave on Tahiti’s south coast, Teahupo’o, and we enthusiastically took the dinghy out to the wave to watch the locals charge. Because international flights were still not allowed into French Polynesia, the locals, and especially the younger generation, really had a chance to shine. The conditions were immaculate, 8-12 feet, light wind and perfect shape. The thick lip that Teahupo’o’s wave is known for was heaving and the locals couldn’t have been happier, scoring clean deep barrels and hooting and hollering for each other with absolute joy. 

It was a sight to see, and as much as we wanted to surf, this wave is pro-level only when it’s on, so we chose to stay alive and just enjoyed the spectacle from the channel. The swell mellowed after a few days and we happily spent the next month surfing and getting to know the locals on the south coast. This was a particularly special opportunity given that we were the only foreigners in the lineup. We were grateful for the warm welcome and feel very fortunate for the friendships and shared waves.

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